Soliflore Notes | Bertrand Duchaufour, Elements Showcase, Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee Mohur Bombay Bling, Oudh
Bertrand Duchaufour, Elements Showcase, Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee Mohur Bombay Bling, Oudh

Neela Vermeire Creations: Consider These Three: Trayee, Mohur, Bombay Bling

Neela Vermeire Creations: Consider These Three: Trayee, Mohur, Bombay Bling

Posted by Valerie Vitale in Perfume Reviews M-Z 12 Feb 2012

There is always anticipation once a fragrance is released onto the skin, and into the atmosphere, you never know what might happen. I’ve been wearing Neela Vermeire Creations: Trayee, Mohur, Bombay Bling, and have noticed that they seem to create a pleasant pause or perhaps a momentary lapse for some busy New York City folk–not in a loud fragrance way that screams,I’m here, now move over, but rather their reach seems almost subliminal.


At the end of two long and exciting days at the Elements Showcase, which highlights niche and independent (there is a difference) fragrances from around the world. I arrived in my neighborhood, with perfume deep on my mind, and found myself at the check-out when the clerk randomly began talking about perfume to the other clerk. I couldn’t contain myself, I asked her why was she talking about perfume, she told me that when I approached the counter she couldn’t believe how beautiful my perfume was, this ultimately reminded her about a perfume gift long overdue to her mother-in-law. The culprit: Mohur. Now I only mention this detailed interaction (there were a few more that happened while wearingMohur) because they rarely occur in the city, and although it’s a given that I consider fragrances all the time; it’s rare that strangers do. My conclusion: Neela Vermeire Creations draw people in, and ask us to consider them.


At Elements, the engaging Neela Vermeire told me that the single most determining factor in her search for a perfumer was that she wanted the nose to have traveled and experienced her motherland, India. Vermeire currently lives in Paris. She found exactly what she was looking for in Bertrand Duchaufour. Their collaboration created a triad of lux perfumes that speak to the ceremonies of the ancient Vedic Era via Trayee, the influence of the outside world on India during The Moghul-British Raj Era via Mohur, and the pulse of Contemporary India via Bombay Bling.


TRAYEE is intoxicating and complex. Its overall effect is round and reverent. Its Ginger and Peppery, almost Lemony top notes meet the creaminess of Sandalwood. A camphorated Cardamom keeps pulling my consciousness in, out and back to the Jasmine heart of this fragrance. I especially like the handling of the resinous Oudh and how it plays with the other base notes of Vetiver and Amber. The dry down is ever changing. Fresh and heady at the same time. It keeps giving. Adding to its intoxicating charm is its top “Ganja effect” note, a nod to Bhang Ki Thandai, a drink that is served during many festivals in India, it’s preparation involves the leaves and flower buds of Cannabis.


As I wear MOHUR I am reminded that a fragrance can be incredibly comforting and bountiful at the same time. A warm Amber and nutty opening blooms and collides into more top notes of Coriander and Cardamom, it’s spicy, yet aromatic-even lemony-cool. Lots of opposites pushing and pulling here. As it blooms there is a milkiness to it, then the Rose and Violet come forth, but it’s the Rose that is the heart of this fragrance. Its base is sweet and balsamic with Tonka Bean and Vanilla and others working together to create a beautiful support. A lighter dose of Oudh is used here and I love the way it plays with and pulls out the different aspects of the Rose note. There is so much to think about when wearing the sublime MOHUR.


A juicy brightness best describes BOMBAY BLING. A fun mix of Mango, Cumin, and Cassis at the top, give way to heady whites, namely Jasmine, and a Ylang-Ylang, the base somehow keeps it all sweet, bright and high perhaps the Patchouli, Cedar, and Vanilla working hard, just like the city, but then there’s the Tobacco and Sandalwood that settles so gently and silently in the dry down.


Still: Last Tango in Paris

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